Deep within the dramatic landscape of the Judean Desert lies a monastery many consider among the most remote in the world. East of the town of Beit Sahour, where the sense of desolation and solitude runs deep, this monastery clings to the cliffs of Wadi Qidron, creating one of the most breathtaking views in Palestine from the outside. From within, its maze of endless stairs, gates and narrow passageways forms a labyrinth all its own. This is Mar Saba Monastery.
Who built this monastery?
It is the oldest and largest monastery in the Holy Land, founded in 483 AD by Saint Sabbas (or Savvas) the Sanctified, a Greek monk from Cappadocia in modern day Turkey. According to the annals of the monastery, Saint Sabbas, seeking solace in the Judean Desert, left his monastery of Saint Avtimius near Jericho and wandered south until he found a cave in a deep gorge near the southern portion of the Kidron Valley, illuminated by a light from the heavens. Taking it as a sign to remain in that place, he was eventually joined by other monks who became his disciples. Together they established the monastery and the Brotherhood that both still bear his name.
Why was Saint Sabbas seeking solace in a dangerous desert?
Saint Sabbas was not the first saint to wander in a desert. Many prophets of old had gone into the wilderness, where they encountered evil powers and many dangers: the scorching heat of the sun, the bitter chill of the night, wild beasts, and the absence of food and water. They emerged from these deserts overcoming these dangers, not by human strength alone, but by spiritual strength sustained by God. Jesus Himself walked into this very desert to reflect upon and prepare for the great mission the Father had given Him.
The desert, then, is a paradox. In it people endure trials and face evil, yet it strengthens their faith in God and draws them closer to Him.
Mar Saba and Mar Theodosius
At its height, the monastery was a virtual city of its own, home to some two hundred monks, surpassed in size only by its neighbor, Mar Theodosius, which once housed nearly four hundred. Monks drawn to a more ascetic, contemplative life joined Mar Saba, while those better suited to communal life entered Mar Theodosius. The monastery of Mar Saba contained its expansive primary church, dedicated to the Feast of the Annunciation, a cave church dedicated to Saint Nicholas, and several smaller chapels reserved for various feast days throughout the year.
Monks lived in dormitory rooms or small cottages within the monastery, or in caves throughout the surrounding valley, known as cells. The word "cell" itself comes from the Greek root for shelter or dwelling , kalia, or for a monk's shelter, kali (pronounced ka lee). The monastery has been almost continuously inhabited since its founding, abandoned by the brotherhood only for brief periods. Today, roughly twenty monks live there still.
Why are women not permitted to enter the monastery?
The monks have continued their way of life in much the same manner as their spiritual ancestors for over a millennium and a half. Following the rule of prayer set down by Saint Sabbas, known as the Sabbite Typikon, the monks abstain from meat and from nearly all modern commodities, including electricity. But one of the most striking rules they still keep is the strict prohibition against women entering the monastery, a ban that has stood for more than fifteen hundred years.
According to a local legend, a woman once dressed as a man and tried to enter the monastery. As she stood at the entrance, an earthquake suddenly broke out, and the priests immediately seized the imposter and led her outside.
The Women's Tower is the only building on the grounds that women are permitted to enter.
The day of the monks begins in prayer at midnight and continues until dawn, broken only by periods of work, rest and shared meals until sundown. They then retreat to their cells for private prayer before a few hours of rest. Services and chanting are conducted in classic Byzantine style, illuminated only by candles and oil lamps. Throughout their lives, the monks have no social contact of any kind with other priests or with people from the outside. As long as they live, they will not know the joy of human connection with any man, woman, or child.
What can visitors see there?
- The monastery faced two invasions in the seventh century, resulting in the martyrdom of several hundred monks. Male visitors can still see the skulls of these monks within the monastery.
- The body of Saint Sabbas still rests in a glass coffin, where male visitors may behold his incorrupt remains.
While only men may enter the monastery during daytime hours, both men and women can climb the hillside to take in the extraordinary view of the Kidron Valley. They may sit at the base of the impressive tower built by Saint Sabbas for his aged mother Sofia, also a saint in the Orthodox Church, greet the gatekeeper monk who carries one of the world's largest functioning keys, or rest on the hillside to contemplate the lives of the many saints who have walked before them in this holy place.
Mar Saba lies east of our workshop in Beit Sahour, very near the monastery itself. You are always more than welcome to visit our workshop to witness our artisans turn blocks of Holy Land olive wood into beautiful carvings by hand. We craft Holy Land gifts including olive wood crucifixes, olive wood rosary beads, olive wood cooking utensils such as olive wood salad bowls, wooden kitchen spoons, and olive wood trays. We also carve other delights from Bethlehem olive wood, such as chess boards.
To view all of these products and many others in high resolution panoramic 360 degrees, visit our online store.
We at Bethlehem Handicrafts are proud to put the Holy Land in your hand by giving you the finest original Bethlehem olive wood carvings, crafted with care in the Holy Land.
Made by Christian Hands. Loved by Christian Hearts.
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